The Fabric

• When purchasing your fabric be aware of its care instructions - dry clean or wash - and make a note for future reference.
• Drape the fabric over the dress model to check how it hangs in both directions. This will allow you to see whether the nap looks the same, regardless of the direction in which the fabric hangs. For velvet and some other fabrics, it is important to cut the fabric so that the pieces will hang in the same direction to avoid shading differences.
• Press the fabric to remove folds and creases, and check for any imperfections that you need to avoid when cutting around the pattern pieces.
• Lay out the fabric and pin on the pattern pieces. Double check that everything is correctly positioned and then cut out all the required pieces. An Adjustoform sewing machine storage table or any reasonable size table will be helpful for this operation.

Constructing The Garment

• After cutting out your pattern and fabric pieces, you are ready to begin sewing.
• Tip - Use your dress model constantly to check the fit of your garment as you sew. This makes sewing so much easier than having constantly to undress and dress in order to try the garment on, in front of a mirror, where trying to see your own back is particularly difficult.
• Pin together the main body of the garment and place onto the model. Make any necessary alterations - e.g. position and shape of neckline and armholes, or positioning gathers so they are evenly placed. Remove the section from the model and tack along the pin line prior to machining and pressing.
• Tip - During the various stages of assembly, store the garment pieces in position on the dress model to keep them crease free and tidy, ready for continuing the work at an appropriate time. This is particularly useful if you do not have the benefit of a sewing room and need to 'hide' the partly finished garment from view e.g. when visitors arrive. Cover with a plastic bag to keep free from dust. This is a much more satisfactory solution than storing your partly completed garment in a bag and having to press the pieces before you can resume sewing.
• Tip - Your dress model will prove invaluable for checking that lapels and collars sit properly; that sleeves hang correctly; and for positioning pockets. Stand back from the model to double check that the look is satisfactory.
• Tip - Leave the garment on the model overnight to give the fabric a chance to drop before you take up the hem, using the hem gauge. If your dress model has a hem attachment, use it to achieve a perfect hemline.
• Tip - If skirt has been made from bias cut fabric, attach clothes pegs at intervals around the hemline to assist it to drop evenly.